Back in November we talked in our Guide to Luxury Watch Buying about the various things to take in consideration while you’re on the search for a Swiss-quality, high fashion, luxury grade timepiece. While that article is good and all (one of our reader’s favorites in fact), we only spend a little time discussing the relationship that watch complications have on the price, quality, and versatility of your timepiece.
So, to help our readers understand a little bit more about the complicated (sorry) world of watch complication, here is a quick guide to some of the most popular ones that we see here at PJD.
What is a Complication?
Since the beginning the world of Swiss haute horology has always been all about competition. Every watchmaker has always seen what their competitor was doing and has tried to outdo and out-innovate their neighbor. In addition to creating more extravagant looking pieces than their competitor, complications were a good way to make a watch more useful and interesting to the watch-buying public.
In the broadest sense, a watch complication is any feature included on a timepiece beyond a simple hour and minute display. Generally these complications are meant to add extra value to a piece, making it an irreplaceable all-in-one device for all of any wearer’s needs and wants. Originally, many of these features, such as those done by Ulysse Nardin, were made to assist men at sea, but have sense expanded to include a number of helpful devices for pilots, drivers, and everyday people.
Some Popular Complications Include:
1. Chronographs:
The most popular complication, a chronograph can be thought of as a stopwatch that is built into a typical watch time display. With the use of an independent sweeping hand, a chronograph can be used to time, and was originally developed in the 1800’s to help King Louis XVIII better record horse races.
Since then, chronograph technology has expanded, is now included on many automatic and quartz-powered timepieces, and has grown to include precise tachymeters and rotating bezels to help measure speed.
Notable Chronograph Timepiece Models:
- The Pilot Doublematic Silver Dial Watch by Zenith [Model #18.2400.4046 01.C721]
Founded by legendary watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot, Zenith has been known for over 150 years as one of the leaders in Swiss-made timepiece superiority. The Pilot Doublematic, a part of Zenith’s Icon Heritage collection, is more than just your run-of-the-mill chronograph. This piece is built with an array of features including unique subdials and a striking display of the timezones of 24 major cities. Additionally, the Doublematic is built with Zenith’s trademark El Primero internal movement, meaning that with proper maintenance this timepiece is sure to survive for future generations to enjoy.
- Marine Royale Watch by Breguet
Made with an 18-karat rose gold bezel and dial, this Breguet timepiece features a precise uni-directional bezel, making it an impeccable piece of Swiss timepiece mastery. With the circular-designed hands that have made Breguet famous, this watch is built with a black rubber bracelet and is water resistant for up to 1000 feet.
- Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Black [model #1503-150 62]
Finding inspiration in the majesty of the open ocean, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine collection contains an array of wonderfully stylish, versatile, and incredibly useful pieces of luxury timepiece technology. Water resistant up to 330 feet, this Marine Chronometer features a wonderful black stainless steel case, bezel, and a top-quality alligator strap. Additionally, this watch is fully certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), meaning that it is guaranteed to handle anything that is thrown its way.
2. Tourbillon
Another popular complication, tourbillon movement was originally invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet (the founder of Breguet Watches) for pocket watches to counter the force of gravity against a watch’s inner mechanisms. Today, watches with added tourbillon complications are extremely valuable and are generally displayed by open style faces which confidently display the distinct rotating machinery within.
Notable Tourbillon Timepiece Models:
- L.U.C. XP Tourbillion Watch by Chopard [model #171933-1001]
From the exclusive L.U.C. collection, the 18-karat white gold and diamond-adorned L.U.C. XP Tourbillon by Chopard is truly at the apex of haute horological luxury and technology. Made in a set of only 25, the L.U.C. XP houses an exquisite tourbillon mechanism that is visible through front side and back side windows.
- Dior Christal Tourbillon Diamants [model #CD115960M001]
With big, bright, and bold colored crystals the women’s timepieces of Dior’s Christal collection are anything but boring. Created as a tribute to Christian Dior himself, the Christal collection is comprised of some of the finest pieces to ever come from Dior, and no piece better exemplifies this than this diamond and black crystal model. Equipped with the revolutionary Concepto Tourbillon movement, this watch is sure to capture the attention of even the most jaded timepiece collectors.
- Ulysse Nardin Exceptional Freak Cruiser Watch [model #2056-131]
The crown jewel of Ulysse Nardin’s Exceptional Freak collection, this timepiece is renowned for its memorable face, easy-to-read numbers, and striking anchor shaped hands. This model makes no excuses and pulls no punches, placing its tourbillon complication in such a way that it is impossible to miss.
3. Moon Phase
A highly desired complication by timepiece collectors, moon phase complications are a way to easily keep track of the 29 and a half lunar calendar cycle. By utilizing a misleadingly simplistic rotating disk, these watches display the various moon phases with the usage of small pictures of the actual moon moving across the night sky. Timepieces with moon phase complications are a wonderful way to add a bit of whimsy, wonder, and enjoyment to your everyday Swiss watch affair.
Notable Moon Phase Timepiece Models:
- Baume & Mercier Classima [model #10226]
With a mother of pearl face adorned with brilliant diamonds, this women’s moon phase watch from Baume & Mercier’s Classima collection is a wonderful example of the subtle sophistication and flirty fun that a moon phase complication can bring to a piece.
- Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date [model #18.2160.4047 01.C713]
A part of the one-of-a-kind El Primero collections from Zenith, the Chronomaster Grande Date watch features not only an innovative chronograph tachymeter, but also classically-designed moon phase and tourbillon subdials. Additionally, this piece includes a breathtaking transparent back for showing off the innovative inner-mechanics to the envy of all your friends.
How to Fine the Perfect Timepiece Complication:
If you think you’re ready to find the perfect timepiece sure to last a lifetime, the first place to start is your local independent fine jewelry retailer. For those shoppers in the greater Los Angeles area, we here at PJD suggest that you check out one of the two locations of Dejaun Jewelers. Conveniently located in Woodland Hills’ Village shopping center, as well as The Oaks Shopping Center in Thousand Oaks, Dejaun Jewelers has one of the largest selections of Swiss timepieces in all of Southern California. In addition their unbelievable selection, Dejaun Jewelers also offers on-site timepiece repair services done by a team of seasoned and skilled professionals.
Now it’s your turn!
What timepiece complication can you not imagine living without? Post on our Twitter, Instagram, or Facebook pages and let us know your opinions, thoughts, or suggestions on finding the ideal timepiece!